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Desi Dressing Is Going Maximalist

This festive season, Indian dressing is all about bold colour, layered textures and the art of more-is-more styling.

Namrata Kedar
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  • Dare to Be Colourful: Go for striking colour contrasts, tonal palettes and pastels to give festive fashion a maximalist twist.
  • Layer Your Looks with Accessories: Incorporate bold pieces of jewellery and layered looks into your wardrobe to create styles that are highly unique.
  • Revive Desi Fashion with a New Perspective: Blend Indian ethnicwear with modern cuts or revel in the grandeur of heritage fabrics and timeless jewellery.
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01Make room for colour clashes

Make room for colour clashes

Unexpected colour combinations have been doing the rounds on Instagram, so why not bring the trend to Indian dressing? Fuchsia with orange, cobalt blue with lime green, or deep purple with a flash of red can bring an entirely different energy to your festive outfits.

Maximalism doesn't have to mean a riot of jewel tones, though. Deepika Padukone's colour-blocked sari, in pastel yellow, blue, green and pink, offers a softer way to experiment, while turquoise earrings add a punch of colour. Kareena Kapoor recently made a case for the same approach in a candy-coloured pastel sari.

As stylist Lehan Devadhia explains, "I think the easiest way to experiment with colour is to step away from the usual festive combinations. Try pairing pink with orange, purple with green, or red with lilac." She suggests starting with two colours you love and building the look around them, keeping accessories complementary rather than matching them head to toe.

You can also take a tonal approach, combining shades, finishes and textures within one colour family. Think burgundy with wine red, or different shades of pink brought together through silk, organza and embroidery. It's an approach to maximalist fashion that can be just as impactful without stepping too far outside your comfort zone.

02Make layering part of the look

Make layering part of the look

Layering can transform a festive outfit without requiring an entirely new look. Think an embellished cape over a simple lehenga, an embroidered jacket over a sari, or a dupatta draped differently over a kurta.

It's also a practical way to take your festival clothing from day to night. Remove a jacket for a lighter look, restyle your dupatta for the evening, or take off a dramatic cape when it's time to dance.

Devadhia recommends experimenting with jackets, particularly for Indo-Western looks. "A jacket paired with a draped skirt and blouse is a great way to add structure and make the outfit feel more contemporary. You can play with contrasting fabrics, interesting lengths or even an oversized silhouette." Deepika Padukone wears a cape over an embroidered pantsuit, while Janhvi Kapoor pairs one with her lehenga.

03More is more, especially with jewellery

More is more, especially with jewellery

Festive dressing and statement jewellery go hand in hand. Instead of styling your jewels around an elaborate outfit, why not let them take centre stage? Layer necklaces of different lengths, stack bangles or reach for chunky earrings. The idea is to create interest with pieces that feel collected rather than perfectly coordinated.

"I don't believe you always have to follow the less-is-more rule," says Devadhia. "Stacking bangles, layering necklaces or mixing different jewellery styles can make a look feel more personal and maximalist." Sonam Kapoor is a great reference for piling on chunky jewellery, whether you're dressing for a puja or a festive dinner. It's an approach that can transform even simple festive outfits.

Don't be afraid to mix metals, either. Gold and silver add contrast, while heirloom pieces bring a personal touch—and often a story worth telling. A few thoughtfully layered pieces can make more of an impact than a matching set, giving festive ethnic wear a more personal feel.

04Mix your textures and embellishments

Mix your textures and embellishments

When it comes to maximalist fashion, colour is only half the story. Contrasting textures add depth: think lustrous silk against airy chiffon, intricate brocade with fluid satin, or an embellished blouse paired with a sari that moves.

Alia Bhatt's Sabyasachi sari balances an intricately embellished blouse with fluid black satin. Janhvi Kapoor, meanwhile, has experimented with a sari made of flowers, while her pearl-embellished blouse offers a modern spin on a classic detail.

Aditi Rao Hydari makes another case for texture, combining lace, velvet and satin in a monochromatic look that channels old-world glamour.

"You can pair something heavily embellished with a contrasting fabric, or mix prints with embroidery to make the look more interesting," says Devadhia. "Don't follow too many rules, but having some connection between the colours helps bring everything together." Try florals with stripes, contrasting traditional motifs, or a printed dupatta layered over an embroidered kurta, using complementary colours to tie everything together.

05Let there be sparkle

Let there be sparkle

A little shimmer goes a long way, but festive dressing is the perfect excuse to turn up the shine. Think sequins, metallic fabrics, diamante embellishments and beaded details. They're an easy way to make your festive outfits feel more celebratory.

Pair a plain sari with a sequinned blouse, or go all out in a head-to-toe glittering look. Kareena Kapoor, Janhvi Kapoor and Ananya Panday offer plenty of inspiration in their dazzling sequin saris.

"I don't think you always need to tone down the shine," says Devadhia, who loves mixing sequins, metallics and statement accessories. "The trick is to be intentional about how you bring them together. You could pair a sequin skirt with a metallic blouse or add chunky jewellery to a high-shine outfit."

If a full-on glitter look feels like too much, try crystal earrings, a glittering clutch, or metallic heels instead. How far you take it is entirely up to you.

06Traditional, with a twist

Traditional, with a twist

Desi maximalism is about reimagining traditional pieces. A sari can be worn with a sculptural corset or a sharply tailored jacket, while a lehenga skirt paired with a crisp white shirt offers a less conventional take on festive dressing.

Ananya Panday makes a case for the corset-and-dhoti-skirt combination, while Kriti Sanon swaps a traditional blouse for a tailored one with a lehenga. Both give familiar silhouettes a fresh edge.

"I think it's about looking at traditional Indian wear differently rather than changing it completely," says Devadhia. "You can take a traditional outfit and make it feel entirely different just by styling it in a way that feels unexpected."

Alternatively, give a contemporary co-ord a festive lift with a vintage necklace or colourful bangles. These combinations keep festive ethnic wear feeling fresh without losing its connection to tradition.

07Go all out desi

Go all out desi

Maximalism doesn't always need a contemporary twist. Sometimes, the most striking approach is to lean into Indian dressing in all its richness: handwoven silks, traditional textiles, generous drapes, and heirloom jewellery. This is festive ethnic wear at its most expressive.

We're bookmarking these looks from Janhvi Kapoor and Alia Bhatt. Kapoor wears a sublime Kanjeevaram with a kamarband, while Bhatt's traditional Paithani, paired with Kolhapuri chappals, is a reminder that the smallest details can make a look. Priyanka Chopra's ethereal all-white lehenga, layered with statement jewellery, offers another take on Indian maximalism.

Rooted in craft and unapologetic about its richness, this is maximalism at its most distinctly Indian. Sometimes, tradition doesn't need a twist to make a statement.

Namrata Kedar is a fashion & beauty writer with bylines in Vogue, Harper's Bazaar, Elle & GQ, based between Mumbai and Dubai.

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